“Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800,”
opened in September at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The show runs
through January 5, 2014. The exhibition is an amazing
overview of more than three centuries of art, commerce, and craft .
Trade textiles were produced by one culture to be sold to
another. According to a description for
the exhibit from the Met’s website, “Beginning in the sixteenth century, the
golden age of European exploration in search of spice routes to the east
brought about the flowering of an abundant textile trade. Textiles often acted
as direct currency for spices, as well as other luxury goods. Textiles and
textile designs made their way throughout the globe, from India and Asia to
Europe, between India and Asia and Southeast Asia, from Europe to the east, and
eventually west to the American colonies.”
The items on display show how trade between different
cultures and countries inspired and changed the way cloth was produced and
designed, from the techniques and materials used to the designs and colors
found decorating the cloth.
The designs on European-made textiles often served as models
for Chinese and Indian artists, and the combination of Asian and European
motifs resulted in novel designs that were especially popular in the West.
By the end of the seventeenth century, objects imported
through the well-established maritime trade routes between Europe, Asia,
Africa, and the Americas served as conduits of information about the cultures
that produced them. Textiles that moved around the globe stimulated an intense
interest in what was deemed "exotic."
Images of fantastic flora, fauna, architecture, and people show
how Europeans imagined China, India, and Turkey. The resulting designs and
artworks demonstrate a shared curiosity between East and West. In the eighteenth century, laws protecting
the English textile industry prohibited residents of the British Isles from
purchasing the Chinese silks and Indian cottons imported by the English East
India Company.
These exotic textiles could, however, be legally re-exported
to other regions. Ironically, the English had to dress in
domestically produced imitations of Asian textiles, but colonists New York
could have the real thing. After the
Louisiana purchase of 1803 the demand for imported Indian chintzes and muslins drastically
decreased.
The exhibition is organized by geography and
theme in nine galleries. There are quilts and bedcovers, tapestries and wall
hangings, shawls and capes, kimonos and vestments, jackets and lavish ball
gowns made of imported silks. Most of the textiles are from the Met’s
collection but have been exhibited rarely, if at all.
Indian palampore |
Hohloma(Russian Folk art) |
This type of dyed cloth was made in abundance in India for the
European market in the late seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
Ukraine folk art picture |
The size of the
palampores conformed to bed sizes in Europe, and their decoration, often with a
central tree laden with fruits and birds, combined elements from English
embroideries, Chinese decorative objects, and Indian textiles.
"NewYorker" said about this exhibition : "The show is more than a landmark in the study of decorative arts—it’s a model of how museums can deploy their collections in context"
The exhibition catalog for Interwoven Globe is a fantastic book for anyone interested in the history of all varieties of textiles. You can buy the book through Amazon with free shipping.
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